Post by danky on Nov 24, 2018 3:43:24 GMT
Disclaimer: just about everything here is based on the decompiled wurm unlimited code. Not everything here will have seen in game testing from me, but I do try to verify what I can, so please don't take everything written here to be 100% correct
I often look through wurm's code for answers to mechanics whenever my alliance asks me about something. A lot of it is usually small, and doesn't warrant a whole guide thread, but is still useful information.
I've decided to start putting what I can out to the public for everyone to see and learn.
On occasion when I put any info I get into a guide readable format, I'll put it into here under a spoiler for anyone to look at. Bigger guides will still get their own thread, if anything warrants that.
(Don't be surprised by the current lack of content, I don't exactly have a ton of stuff in a format that anyone can read, yet)
Warning: Any current or future guides may spoil a learning aspect of the game. The spoilers are here so if you do want this information, you may read it at your own will!
For other datamining content that has been already covered, see this datamining thread on the WO forums. Lots of good info there!
TODO:
Pretty colors
More content
As a note, I will probably use the word 'Poll' a lot. Polling in wurm is the server basically randomly checking a particular item/animal/tile/etc, Its how hens decide to lay eggs, items decay, fountains fill, etc.
Not the BEEEEEES!
Beekeeping is something a lot of players end up doing, for one reason or another. For the most part you'll see some general answers given when players ask what to do with bees, such as 'plant flowers or enchant grass.'
Below will give you a 'good answer' as well as show in depth how a hive works.
TL;DR - Square root your hive QL (9 tile radius for 81ql or higher) and keep very old trees planted in that radius. Keep them pruned so they don't overage. Drown in honey and wax. For hands-off beekeeping, use steppe, slightly less honey.
Becoming your own beekeeper:
Many ask, some guess. Here's a short summary of what factors into getting those wild bees to move into your hive.
Most hives will spawn in spring, less in summer. None spawn in fall and all wild hives DIE in winter. If you're going to hunt, look around a short while into spring.
First thing is first, when you find a hive, examine it. Is it noisy? Great, you can drop any ql hive next to it, the extra queen will come in eventually. If it is NOT noisy and you still want it, you must have your hive be higher quality than the wild hive (again, examine) or else the queen will not move.
When the wild hive is polled (insert guesstimate of time here, 20-30 mins maybe?) it has a flat 33% chance to try and move a queen, the game will look for the first empty hive it can find for the queen.
With two queens, one will move in without any other checks. With just one queen, it checks the distance to the new hive, and rolls another RNG check (it is 100% if you place it next to it)
Once you have your new buzzing friend, remember they need to eat too! Unfortunately they can't eat pies like the rest of us. Whenever the hive itself gets polled, it has a 20% chance to consume sugar/honey. They will first try to eat a single piece of sugar, and failing that they need to eat 10 grams of honey.
If you want to increase your hive production without finding more wild hives, your own domestic hives can become noisy too. A hive can become noisy (20% chance) if both: It has at least 1kg of honey AND it is currently spring or summer.
Honey production statistics:
Hives work off a field of influence, similar to how your altar has its own field of influence. The 'Strength' of a hives influence is equal to 1 plus the square root of its QL. This strength drops by 1 for every tile outward, giving your 81+ hives an effective zone of 19x19 each (9 tiles in all directions from the hive)
When two hives clash the 'stronger' one owns the tile, ties look to the ql of the hives with higher winning. This means overlapping hives will give you less coverage per hive, and result in slightly less honey.
When a tile within a hive's influence is polled by the server, it has a 1 in 3 chance to try to add honey to it. The amount of honey you can get is determined by the TYPE of tile and the SEASON. The table below will show you.
Note that the numbers here represent grams of honey, not kgs. 1,000 grams = 1kg
Grass flower multiplier - is based on the type of flower present, rarer giving higher. Blue/white flowers gives you about 3x honey production, rivaling trees.
Tree age - Young(1), Mature(4), Old(8), Very Old(7), Overaged(5), Shriveled(0). The number representing the additional grams of honey produced.
Crop growth - Starts at 0 (sown) to 4, 10, 15, 17, 8, then 6 when fully grown.
And finally, before we go and put that honey into a hive, we get another multiplier based on the season.
Winter - 0.1 | Spring - 1.5 | Summer - 1.1 | Fall - 0.7
Note that despite my use of the word winter, it refers to the first month of the year, which spring may get into. Hives will NOT produce honey will dormant, which is the last two weeks and first week of the year.
If you made less than 5g of honey, the hive gets 1g only.
If more than 5g, the game takes away 4g of honey, and sticks it in the hive. The QL of the honey is equal to the hive QL.
If you made at least 10g of honey (6g after the reduction) congrats! You have a 1 in 40 chance to earn a piece of beeswax along with the honey.
If you are looking at this, you probably want to maximize honey and wax production. As stated in the TL;DR, very old trees would be the best way to go about this. Spring and summer would see you producing 21g and 14g of honey per tile, well over the 10g requirement for wax for most of the year, with the only hassle being keeping the trees pruned.
Steppe is also viable if you just want to go completely hands off, you lose a bit of honey and the option of using fruit trees though.
Eggcel with hens
(Oh god I'm gonna get hit over that one)
Hens are pretty well understood by now. This is just here because I looked up the code.
Egg laying:
When a hen is polled, it has a 1 in 20,000 chance to lay an egg if conditions are right. (how often I don't know actually, probably every few seconds)
The conditions being:
An egg will be laid if this succeeds, with a 1 in 5 chance of the egg being fertile REGARDLESS of a rooster being around.
Egg hatching:
Not all fertile eggs will hatch unfortunately. Fertile eggs have a 1 in 10 chance to even hatch.
If an egg successfully hatches though, it has a 75% chance of being female, and 25% male.
Not very well known, but if you rename an egg and it hatches, the game will use the first 10 characters to name your chicken!
This apparently does not work when the chicken grows up.
(The same works for horse eggs, by the way! Get your very own playername the horse!)
Forge, Oven, etc burn times.
If you've looked up the WU datamining guide you've surely seen the table that shows you forge burning times. If you're an old enough player here to remember the old burn time mod you'd also know it didn't work correctly for ovens or stills.
Here's a bit of detail on how long that stuff lasts.
TL;DR ovens suck. They're not worth the trouble of going past 80-90ql.
First things first, fueling. All your major cooking appliances need at least 30kgs worth of fuel to be fully fueled. Some fuels work better than others.
- Wood is your basic fuel, everyone has a colossal pile of wood scraps they sit on. Wood, with the exception of birchwood, is just worth its own weight toward the fuel cap.
- Birchwood is worth DOUBLE its own weight as fuel. A 24kg log will count as 48kgs of fuel, maxing your timer instantly.
- Peat is worth FOUR TIMES its own weight as fuel. Peat comes in 10kg chunks, so just one gives you 40kgs of fuel, also maxing the timer instantly.
- Tar is worth EIGHT times its own weight as fuel. At a measly 1kg each you'd still need 4 to max out your forge.
To further help keep your ovens running and your ore smelting there's a few multipliers on how fast fuel is consumed as well.
- Being inside nets you a 25% reduction. You shouldn't leave your forge outside anyhow.
- Rarity adds a stacking 10% reduction.
- Your best rune, an iron Fo made of stone, will net you another 10% reduction.
Now, with all that in mind, here is a glorious chart detailing how long each major appliance will last at max fuel.
Note that time is measured in minutes, and assumes you are keeping it indoors. Runes are not included in calculations.
If you have any questions you think can be answered by looking in the code, I can look them up, just ask away. I will put more into this thread as time goes on.
But I will not answer: Most stuff about skill gain (actions to X skill, etc) or difficulty, or stuff about item decay. There's certain rabbit holes I don't want to go down yet.[/spoiler]
I often look through wurm's code for answers to mechanics whenever my alliance asks me about something. A lot of it is usually small, and doesn't warrant a whole guide thread, but is still useful information.
I've decided to start putting what I can out to the public for everyone to see and learn.
On occasion when I put any info I get into a guide readable format, I'll put it into here under a spoiler for anyone to look at. Bigger guides will still get their own thread, if anything warrants that.
(Don't be surprised by the current lack of content, I don't exactly have a ton of stuff in a format that anyone can read, yet)
Warning: Any current or future guides may spoil a learning aspect of the game. The spoilers are here so if you do want this information, you may read it at your own will!
For other datamining content that has been already covered, see this datamining thread on the WO forums. Lots of good info there!
TODO:
Pretty colors
More content
As a note, I will probably use the word 'Poll' a lot. Polling in wurm is the server basically randomly checking a particular item/animal/tile/etc, Its how hens decide to lay eggs, items decay, fountains fill, etc.
Not the BEEEEEES!
Beekeeping is something a lot of players end up doing, for one reason or another. For the most part you'll see some general answers given when players ask what to do with bees, such as 'plant flowers or enchant grass.'
Below will give you a 'good answer' as well as show in depth how a hive works.
TL;DR - Square root your hive QL (9 tile radius for 81ql or higher) and keep very old trees planted in that radius. Keep them pruned so they don't overage. Drown in honey and wax. For hands-off beekeeping, use steppe, slightly less honey.
Becoming your own beekeeper:
Many ask, some guess. Here's a short summary of what factors into getting those wild bees to move into your hive.
Most hives will spawn in spring, less in summer. None spawn in fall and all wild hives DIE in winter. If you're going to hunt, look around a short while into spring.
First thing is first, when you find a hive, examine it. Is it noisy? Great, you can drop any ql hive next to it, the extra queen will come in eventually. If it is NOT noisy and you still want it, you must have your hive be higher quality than the wild hive (again, examine) or else the queen will not move.
When the wild hive is polled (insert guesstimate of time here, 20-30 mins maybe?) it has a flat 33% chance to try and move a queen, the game will look for the first empty hive it can find for the queen.
With two queens, one will move in without any other checks. With just one queen, it checks the distance to the new hive, and rolls another RNG check (it is 100% if you place it next to it)
Once you have your new buzzing friend, remember they need to eat too! Unfortunately they can't eat pies like the rest of us. Whenever the hive itself gets polled, it has a 20% chance to consume sugar/honey. They will first try to eat a single piece of sugar, and failing that they need to eat 10 grams of honey.
If you want to increase your hive production without finding more wild hives, your own domestic hives can become noisy too. A hive can become noisy (20% chance) if both: It has at least 1kg of honey AND it is currently spring or summer.
Honey production statistics:
Hives work off a field of influence, similar to how your altar has its own field of influence. The 'Strength' of a hives influence is equal to 1 plus the square root of its QL. This strength drops by 1 for every tile outward, giving your 81+ hives an effective zone of 19x19 each (9 tiles in all directions from the hive)
When two hives clash the 'stronger' one owns the tile, ties look to the ql of the hives with higher winning. This means overlapping hives will give you less coverage per hive, and result in slightly less honey.
When a tile within a hive's influence is polled by the server, it has a 1 in 3 chance to try to add honey to it. The amount of honey you can get is determined by the TYPE of tile and the SEASON. The table below will show you.
Note that the numbers here represent grams of honey, not kgs. 1,000 grams = 1kg
| Tile | Winter | Spring | Summer | Fall | Notes |
| Grass | 0 | 5 | 5 | 2 | If flowers are present, honey production gets a multiplier. |
| Enchanted Grass/Tree | 1 | 6 | 6 | 3 | |
| Steppe | 1 | 9 | 11 | 7 | |
| Trees/Bushes | 2 | 8 | 6 | 4 | Has honey production added based on the tree/bushes age. See below |
| Crops | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Has honey production based on crop growth, rather than season. See below |
Grass flower multiplier - is based on the type of flower present, rarer giving higher. Blue/white flowers gives you about 3x honey production, rivaling trees.
Tree age - Young(1), Mature(4), Old(8), Very Old(7), Overaged(5), Shriveled(0). The number representing the additional grams of honey produced.
Crop growth - Starts at 0 (sown) to 4, 10, 15, 17, 8, then 6 when fully grown.
And finally, before we go and put that honey into a hive, we get another multiplier based on the season.
Winter - 0.1 | Spring - 1.5 | Summer - 1.1 | Fall - 0.7
Note that despite my use of the word winter, it refers to the first month of the year, which spring may get into. Hives will NOT produce honey will dormant, which is the last two weeks and first week of the year.
If you made less than 5g of honey, the hive gets 1g only.
If more than 5g, the game takes away 4g of honey, and sticks it in the hive. The QL of the honey is equal to the hive QL.
If you made at least 10g of honey (6g after the reduction) congrats! You have a 1 in 40 chance to earn a piece of beeswax along with the honey.
If you are looking at this, you probably want to maximize honey and wax production. As stated in the TL;DR, very old trees would be the best way to go about this. Spring and summer would see you producing 21g and 14g of honey per tile, well over the 10g requirement for wax for most of the year, with the only hassle being keeping the trees pruned.
Steppe is also viable if you just want to go completely hands off, you lose a bit of honey and the option of using fruit trees though.
Eggcel with hens
(Oh god I'm gonna get hit over that one)
Hens are pretty well understood by now. This is just here because I looked up the code.
Egg laying:
When a hen is polled, it has a 1 in 20,000 chance to lay an egg if conditions are right. (how often I don't know actually, probably every few seconds)
The conditions being:
- The hen is not hungry
- It is on GRASS, DIRT, CROPS or PACKED DIRT
An egg will be laid if this succeeds, with a 1 in 5 chance of the egg being fertile REGARDLESS of a rooster being around.
Egg hatching:
Not all fertile eggs will hatch unfortunately. Fertile eggs have a 1 in 10 chance to even hatch.
If an egg successfully hatches though, it has a 75% chance of being female, and 25% male.
This apparently does not work when the chicken grows up.
(The same works for horse eggs, by the way! Get your very own playername the horse!)
Forge, Oven, etc burn times.
If you've looked up the WU datamining guide you've surely seen the table that shows you forge burning times. If you're an old enough player here to remember the old burn time mod you'd also know it didn't work correctly for ovens or stills.
Here's a bit of detail on how long that stuff lasts.
TL;DR ovens suck. They're not worth the trouble of going past 80-90ql.
First things first, fueling. All your major cooking appliances need at least 30kgs worth of fuel to be fully fueled. Some fuels work better than others.
- Wood is your basic fuel, everyone has a colossal pile of wood scraps they sit on. Wood, with the exception of birchwood, is just worth its own weight toward the fuel cap.
- Birchwood is worth DOUBLE its own weight as fuel. A 24kg log will count as 48kgs of fuel, maxing your timer instantly.
- Peat is worth FOUR TIMES its own weight as fuel. Peat comes in 10kg chunks, so just one gives you 40kgs of fuel, also maxing the timer instantly.
- Tar is worth EIGHT times its own weight as fuel. At a measly 1kg each you'd still need 4 to max out your forge.
To further help keep your ovens running and your ore smelting there's a few multipliers on how fast fuel is consumed as well.
- Being inside nets you a 25% reduction. You shouldn't leave your forge outside anyhow.
- Rarity adds a stacking 10% reduction.
- Your best rune, an iron Fo made of stone, will net you another 10% reduction.
Now, with all that in mind, here is a glorious chart detailing how long each major appliance will last at max fuel.
Note that time is measured in minutes, and assumes you are keeping it indoors. Runes are not included in calculations.
If you have any questions you think can be answered by looking in the code, I can look them up, just ask away. I will put more into this thread as time goes on.
But I will not answer: Most stuff about skill gain (actions to X skill, etc) or difficulty, or stuff about item decay. There's certain rabbit holes I don't want to go down yet.[/spoiler]
